Perfect Crispy French fries
first recipe
Ingredients:
2 cups warm water
⅓ cup white sugar
2 large russet potatoes - peeled, and sliced into 1/4 inch strips
6 cups vegetable oil for frying
salt to taste
Directions
Gather all ingredients.
Gather all ingredients.
Stir together warm water and sugar in a medium bowl. Soak potatoes in water mixture for 15 minutes.
Remove potatoes from water and dry thoroughly on paper towels. Heat oil in a deep-fryer to 375 degrees F (190 degrees C).
Cook potatoes in hot oil until golden, 5 to 6 minutes. Drain on paper towels and season with salt.
Cut fries with a serrated knife (secret crispiness tip #1)
No soaking, just rinse
Gently simmer 10 minutes in vinegar water (secret crispiness tip #2! And no, you can’t taste vinegar)
Shallow-fry twice
Background: Rethinking the french fry method
The conventional way of making french fries involves firstly soaking the raw fries in water followed by a double fry. This was (still is?) the way students were taught at cookery school and is still the default method used by many restaurants and pubs.
This method will yield crispy fries when they are piping hot, straight out of the fryer. But the first problem is that within minutes, before they even hit the table, they start to lose crispiness. I also found this classical method is heavily dependent on the potato. You get varying levels of crispiness depending on the potato quality and even season, as the starch / sugar levels of potatoes vary throughout the year. This is true even if you use the ideal variety of potato.
Well, this won’t-stay-crispy problem and unpredictability just won’t cut it anymore. So, old school method ditched. It’s time to look at modern methods with better and more reliable results!
Actually it’s not just me. Times have changed generally and restaurants around the world use all sorts of methods these days in pursuit of the ultimate crispy French fries. Some go to extreme lengths like triple or quadruple frying, overnight resting, or frying in pure beef drippings.
But we don’t need to dabble in any such tedious restaurant kitchen shenanigans. This method I’m sharing today is one that any home cook can do. It’s not particularly technical. But you do need to be comfortable frying in oil. That said, in this recipe we only shallow fry and not deep fry – always a bonus!
What you need
Here’s all you need to make your crispy french fry dreams a reality. Yep, this is all!
Potato – The type is important. Starchy, floury potatoes are the potatoes you need for crispy fries.
Australia: Sebago (the common dirty brushed potatoes you see everywhere)
US: Russet (also known as Idaho potatoes)
UK: Maris Piper or King Edward.
Vinegar – For simmering the potatoes, it is one secret weapon for perfect fries. There is no trace of vinegar flavour once cooked. See Step 4 below for the why.
Salt – For seasoning the water so the potatoes are seasoned all the way through.
Oil – For frying. I use vegetable or canola oil which are neutrally-flavoured oils. Re-using the oil: The oil can be re-used 3 to 4 times, or more. It won’t even need to be strained. Just cool, pour into jars and keep in the pantry, and have a browse in this recipe collection to decide what to make next!
How to make stay-crispy French fries
To get ahead or cook big batches, make the fries up to the end of Fry #1, cool then freeze until you’re ready to cook. Then do Fry #2 from frozen. Handy!
1. Cut fries
First, we have to cut our fries. A neat little crispy fries trick you may not have seen before: use a serrated knife to cut the potatoes. Though not visible to the eye, it makes the surface rougher therefore creating more surface area to crisp up = crispier fries!
What size to cut the fries: 6 mm / 1/4″ batons is the ideal size for optimum crispiness and fluffy insides. Thicker = less crispy. Thinner = not enough fluffiness inside.
How to slice: Cut a whole potato into 6 mm / 1/4″ thick slices. Stack 2 or 3 slices then cut into 6 mm / 1/4″ thick batons.
2. Keep in water to prevent browning
Keep cut fries in water to prevent them from browning as you continue cutting. No soaking time is actually required. A simple rinse followed by simmering the potatoes in vinegar water takes care of this for us.
3. Rinse
Once all the fries are cut, place in a colander then rinse under tap water for 15 – 20 seconds. This is the first step to remove excess sugars from the surface of the potatoes (more on the “why” of this below, but in short it’s to aid crispiness – of course!). Meanwhile, the insides remain untouched by water so they’ll cook up nice and fluffy.
4. Cook in vinegar water = superior crispiness
Once the potatoes are rinsed, place them in a pot with cold tap water, vinegar and salt. Bring to a boil on high heat then immediately turn down to low so the surface is barely rippling. Cook for 10 minutes. See below for the “why” for this step!
What is the purpose of cooking in vinegar water?
This is the really clever part, a no-extra-effort step discovered by kenji lopez from Serious Eats which makes all the difference. There’s a lot of technical science behind the why, but in a nutshell:
Simmering the fries in water washes away the excess sugars that can cause the fries to brown too much before they have a chance to properly crisp up when frying
The water also activates the starches in the potato. Starch, when fried, is what creates that crispy surface we want!
Meanwhile adding acid (the vinegar) to the water prevents the potatoes from disintegrating for the 10 minute simmering time required. (Like how tart Granny Smith apples don’t turn into baby food mush when cooked whereas sweet red apples do.)
In case you are wondering, yes I tried variations like no-vinegar, shorter and longer cooking times, rapid boil versus gentle simmering. The vinegar water simmering method for 10 minutes works. Don’t skip it or shortcut it!
5. Drain and dry
Use a spider or large slotted spoon to remove the potatoes from the water into a colander. Then carefully spread the potatoes out on two tea towel-lined trays to steam dry for 5 minutes. No need to pat them dry, the residual heat will do the job for us.
6. Cooking vessel and oil
Cooking vessel – Use a heavy-based, large pot that is at least 10 cm / 4″ deep. We need:
Oil depth – 3 cm / 1.2″ of oil (1 litre/quart for the pictured 24cm / 10″ pot). It’s barely deep-frying, it’s more like shallow-frying!
Safety headroom – 7 cm / 2.8″ headroom above the surface of the oil for safety purposes as the oil bubbles up quite a lot when we fry. ⚠️ THIS IS IMPORTANT! Oil overflow is a real risk if you do not do this. It’s scary and dangerous, as I found out first hand! Learn from my mistakes. ☺️
Oil temperature – Preheat the oil to 205°C/400°F. Use a thermometer to monitor the temperature. I use a Thermapen, see my essentiels kitchenware post for more details.
7. Fry #1
⚠️ IMPORTANT: For safety reasons, please follow the directions to pause 10 seconds between adding batches of more potato into the oil! As you can see in the photos below, the oil bubbles up quite high and vigorously as soon as you add some potato. If you add all the potato in one go, the oil will bubble up even higher and faster, which is risky. I’m speaking from first hand experience here!
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